Surf
Torrey Pines State Beach (TPSB)
As waves approach the beach they begin to interact with the bottom. The distance between crests (wavelength) shortens, and their height increases. They break when the water depth is about 1.4 times their height.
The Surf Zone
The zone of breaking waves can vary greatly from hour-to-hour. The incoming wave energy is constantly changing in direction, amplitude, period composition. The water depth and postion changes with the tides. The botom itself can change because of wave action and the action of wave induced currents, including dangerous rip currents.
A forecast for the County can be no more than a generalized characterization. Conditions on each beach are different due to its exposure and bottom shape (bathymetry). This forecast is provided by NOAA.
Before entering the water swimmers and surfers should check with a lifeguard to learn about present conditions and hazards.